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What to inspect after AC installation

Before the final payment, confirm the permit is finalled, collect the Title 24 test results and start-up readings, check the equipment is registered for its warranty, and walk round the outdoor and indoor units with the installer. Then watch the system through its first hot weeks.

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When to inspect

  1. Day of install: the walk-round, outside and inside.
  2. Rater visit: the Title 24 verification under the CEC's ECC program.
  3. Final inspection: the building inspector closes the permit.
  4. First hot weeks: watch for uneven rooms, short runs or water.

Hold the last payment

CSLB cautions that a down payment should not exceed 10 percent of the contract price, and later payments should not run ahead of the work done or materials delivered. Holding the final payment until the permit is finalled is reasonable. Agree it in the contract before work starts.

The paperwork to collect

DocumentWhy you want it
Finalled permitProof the job passed inspection; LADWP's heat pump rebate needs it; comes up when you sell
Title 24 test resultsDuct leakage and refrigerant checks, registered by the rater
Start-up readingsRefrigerant charge, temperatures and airflow at commissioning; a baseline for later service
Model and serial numbersFor warranty claims, rebates and service
Manufacturer registrationMany equipment warranties depend on it
Written warranty termsEquipment and labor, separately, with their lengths
Final invoiceMatches the quote and any approved change orders

Outside: the outdoor unit

  • Level on its pad or bracket, with clearance on all sides as the manual specifies.
  • Line set insulated and sealed where it enters the house.
  • An electrical disconnect mounted within sight of the unit.
  • Condensate draining somewhere sensible, not against the foundation.
  • No damage to landscaping, roof or walls, and debris removed.
  • For a condo or close neighbours: the unit is where the HOA allowed.

Inside: air handler, ducts and thermostat

  • Every supply register blows air; returns pull air.
  • The filter size and location are shown to you.
  • The thermostat is set up and you know how to use it.
  • No new noise or vibration in the attic or closet.
  • Ceiling, wall and floor openings are patched.
  • For a furnace removed: the gas line is capped properly.

A simple first-day test

  1. Run cooling for 20 minutes on a warm afternoon.
  2. Feel each register: all should be blowing cool air.
  3. Listen outside and in for rattles or buzzing.
  4. Check the condensate line is dripping where it should.
  5. Note the time it takes to bring the house down a few degrees, as a baseline.

Not a substitute for the tests

This tells you the system runs. It does not replace the refrigerant and duct checks the contractor and rater do.

Over the first weeks

Note any room that stays hot or cold, short on-off cycles, ice on the lines, or water near the indoor unit. Call the installer while the labor warranty is fresh.

See hot and cold spots and the maintenance schedule.

Extra checks after a heat pump conversion

  • Heating mode works: switch the thermostat to heat on a cool evening.
  • The old furnace and its flue are removed or made safe, and openings sealed.
  • The gas line to the furnace is capped.
  • The electrical work has its own permit sign-off if one was needed.
  • The rebate paperwork is complete: model numbers, invoice, finalled permit.

Extra checks after a mini-split install

  • Each indoor head is level and drains properly.
  • The line set cover outside is secured and neat.
  • Each remote or thermostat works its own head.
  • Wall penetrations are sealed inside and out.
  • The outdoor unit sits where the HOA, if any, approved.

What to keep, and where

Put the permit, rater results, start-up readings, model and serial numbers, registration and warranty terms in one folder, paper or digital. They are what you hand over for a warranty claim, a rebate, a future service visit or a house sale.

Photograph the labels

Take a photo of the rating plate on the outdoor and indoor units. It records the model and serial numbers even if the paperwork goes missing.

The handover: what to ask on the day

  1. Where is the filter, what size, and how often should I change it?
  2. Where is the outdoor disconnect, and when should I use it?
  3. How does the thermostat work, including any schedule or app?
  4. When is the rater booked, and do I need to be home?
  5. When is the final inspection?
  6. Who registers the equipment, and when do I get the confirmation?
  7. Who do I call if something is wrong, and what does the labor warranty cover?

The 30-day watch list

Watch forWhat to do
A room that never coolsNote times and doors; call the installer
Short on-off cyclesNote how often; ask about sizing and settings
Water near the indoor unitTurn off; call: likely a drain issue
Ice on the linesTurn off; call: airflow or refrigerant
New rattles or buzzingCall while the labor warranty is fresh
A higher bill than expectedCompare with the same month last year, then ask

If something fails

  • Rater test fails: the contractor corrects it and the rater retests. The contract should say who pays for extra duct sealing; published LA duct repair runs $800–$4,500.
  • Inspection fails: the contractor fixes the correction notice and rebooks.
  • Equipment fault: a manufacturer warranty claim, usually through the installer.

Sources

Questions

Should I pay in full before the inspection?

CSLB cautions that a down payment should not exceed 10 percent of the contract price, and later payments should not run ahead of the work done or materials delivered. Holding the last payment until the permit is finalled is reasonable; agree it in the contract.

What if the system fails the rater's test?

The contractor corrects it and the rater retests. The contract should say who pays for any duct sealing that requires.

How do I know the permit was finalled?

Ask the contractor for the signed-off permit or the inspection record. Many building offices also let you look up permit status online.

Who registers the equipment warranty?

Often the installer, sometimes you. Ask who does it and get the confirmation, because some manufacturers require registration within a set time.

Is water around the indoor unit normal?

No. The condensate should drain away. Water around the unit points to a blocked drain or a slope problem; call the installer.

How long should a new AC take to cool the house?

It depends on the house, the weather and the size. Note how long it takes on day one and compare later; a big change is worth a service call.

What start-up readings should I ask for?

Refrigerant charge or pressures, supply and return temperatures, and airflow. Keep them with the permit as a baseline.

What if the installer leaves without showing me the system?

Ask them to come back for a handover. You should know where the filter is, how the thermostat works and where the disconnect is.

Is a little noise from a new outdoor unit normal?

Some fan and compressor sound is normal. Rattles, buzzing or vibration are not; call the installer.

Should the old unit be removed?

Usually, yes, along with recovery of its refrigerant. Check that removal was in the quote.

Next step

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  3. Compare what comes back. Line the written quote up against the published ranges and the quote checklist.

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